FVTVRIST GUIDES//
Paris: Notes by Elina P. (Fvtvrist)
Home to more than 1,000 modern and contemporary art galleries and 136 museums, Paris remains one of the most happening cultural capitals in the world. The first time I arrived here, I felt a mix of euphoria and confusion, the amount of choice is almost overwhelming. Some of the most important design and art collections, galleries ranging from the tiniest spaces to blue-chips with museum-quality exhibitions, foundations, artist-run spaces, residencies, and studios. This vibrancy, the thirst for discovery, and the importance of preserving culture and history are reasons enough for me to forgive any of Paris’s faults.
To brace myself (and not create a 100-page bible), I’m sharing the places I’d take a close friend visiting the city for the first time. Sure, you’ll recognize many of them, but consider this your sign to revisit.
I’ve never missed an exhibition at the Palais de Tokyo. Their programme places visitors at the very heart of the artistic experience. Conceived as a modular, industrial organism and open almost daily until midnight, the institution functions as both a laboratory and a cultural club.
Another institution with an emphasis on artist-led projects and flexible architecture is Lafayette Anticipations. Most of all, I love their solo shows - Martine Margiela and Mark Leckey, Issy Wood and Pol Taburet. Free entry and exhibition catalogues distributed from vending machines (a cool souvenir) are nice bonuses.
「 IIssy Wood, exhibition view, 2024, Lafayette Anticipations 」
「 Image: Anne Imhof, exhibition view, 2021, Palais de Tokyo, Courtesy of the artist, Galerie Buchholz, and Sprüth Magers. Photo credit: Andrea Rossetti.」
This vibrancy, the thirst for discovery,
and the importance of preserving culture
and history are reasons enough for me
to forgive any of Paris’s faults.
I wouldn’t miss blockbuster exhibitions at Fondation Louis Vuitton, but I find myself more and more drawn to the curatorial programme at Fondation Giacometti - dialogues between Alberto Giacometti’s sculptures and works of other artists, often contemporary. A charming space, warm openings, it all leaves you purely inspired. It’s also within walking distance of Fondation Cartier, so I like to do both on the same day.
The last place on the list, though clearly, I’m failing to keep it short, is Kadist: deeply rooted in research, inclusivity, and thoughtful, responsible curation. Their programme spans exhibitions, talks, residencies, and collaborations with institutions worldwide, often engaging with urgent political, social, and environmental questions through the lens of contemporary art.
「 Image: Fondation Giacometti,
Photo credit: Fondation Giacometti 」
「 Image: David Douard, exhibition view, 2024, Galerie Chantal Crousel.
Photo credit: Galerie Chantal Crousel」
「 Image: Xie Lei, exhibition view, 2025, Semiose galerie」
For a good Saturday gallery stroll: during my student years, I interned with Paris Gallery Weekend - a large annual event with great programming in galleries and partner institutions: round tables, special exhibitions, cocktails. It’s one of my favorite events on the calendar, but more importantly, a great map to the geography of Parisian galleries. Six key neighborhoods in and around the city are always available on their website. Just pick a neighborhood you’d like to explore, check the map, and you’ve got a perfect itinerary.
Personally, some of my favorite galleries include Susanne Tarasieve, located in the 3rd arrondissement and founded by the truly legendary Suzanne, which continues to deliver amazing exhibitions, sometimes curated by invited guests. Pact - a tiny gallery within walking distance - is another favorite. I haven’t missed a show in years; it’s a great place to discover emerging and mid-career artists.
Derouillon, a French gallery creating bonds between emerging and established artists through curated group shows. Semiose introduced me to the brilliant work of Xie Lei. From the bigger players: Chantal Crousel, Templon, and, of course, Thaddaeus Ropac.
Speaking of galleries, I can’t not mention art fairs. Asia Now with an incredible list of galleries dedicated to Asian art, a strong curatorial angle, and a beautiful location at the Monnaie de Paris. Offscreen - relatively new, but the most energetic, “cool,” and vibrant fair on the calendar in my opinion. High hopes for NADA, which held its first Paris edition last year, in collaboration with The Community - a Paris-based curatorial collective known for championing independent and experimental practices.
「 Image: NADA, 2024」
「 Image: Off Screen, 2024」
I never skip a museum bookstore. Publishing and art editions are art in themselves. However, my favorite treasure-hunting spots are the Librairie Sans Titre in the 11th and Bookstore 1909 for true collectibles, niche editions, and other finds.
Lastly, make your way to Reflet Médicis, an independent cinema with a carefully curated programme, from arthouse and restored classics to experimental works and conversations with directors. Located in one of Paris's most beautiful quarters. Love.
「 Image: 1909」
